Please read the following for class on Wednesday:
August 31, 2009
Op-Ed Columnist
Advantage France
By ROGER COHEN
CHERENCE, FRANCE — Arrival is usually defined as reaching a destination, but of course it’s more than that, it’s the moment when you have shed enough of where you came from to be present at the place you’ve reached. This offloading of layers takes time, like peeling an onion.
My French arrival this year was time-consuming. Iran, which is another story, had me. But the moment came, and when it came, it was not the dawn swooping of starlings, the softness of the dusk light through the sycamores, or the chiming of a village bell that delivered me to “la douce France,” but the sight of glistening guts.
The guts in question were being coaxed by a hand — ungloved — from the belly of a four-pound sea bass — unfarmed — at the market in the Norman town of Vernon, which has one stand devoted solely to watercress. The fish, iridescent, its gills bright scarlet, was fresh from the waters off Dieppe.
My friend Marcel Bossy, who had made the pre-dawn drive from the coast with his glossy load, had his hand deep in the fish. He was laughing about something as the guts slithered onto a scale-coated chopping board.
My 11-year-old daughter, Adele, covered her eyes, but I was riveted. Marcel’s wife, Sandrine, also laughing — something ribald between them — was gutting firm mackerel with swift incisions and finger movements, when one dropped to the ground. She scooped the fish up and resumed work on it, putting me in mind of Julia Child’s famous statement about a miss-flipped potato pancake: “You can always pick it up.”
Since Child, in “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” and in her groundbreaking 1960’s television show “The French Chef,” brought Gallic secrets to riveted Americans, the shameless gutting and picking-up of real food in ungloved hands has given way to the hurried-hermetic-hygienic U.S. fever of plastic gloves, processed foods and precooked meals.
Those fish guts delivered me to France because, although this country has its share of fast-food outlets, it has preserved a relationship to food distinguished from the American in three essential respects: fear, time and “terroir.”
If Americans want their fish pre-filleted, their chicken breasts excised from surrounding bone and conveniently packed, their offal kept from view and the table, and any hand that touches a slice of ham or lox sealed inside a glove, it is because fear of the innards that will not speak their name, the guts that reek of life, and the germs we all carry has become rampant.
By contrast, the French don’t believe what they’re eating is genuine unless they’ve seen gritty proof of provenance. They like the alchemy of the peasant hand that does the pâté grip.
American anxiety is related to the American perception of time, which is always short in a land that prizes efficiency above all. Precooked meals — food divorced from its origins, food without guts — is faster to prepare and therefore attractive.
I bought a couple of the female ducklings the French call “canettes” the other day. It took 15 minutes for the cutting-off of head, feet and wing-tips; for the innards to be removed; for the placing in the cleansed insides of the liver, kidneys and neck; for singeing over a gas burner; and for discussion as to whether I wanted the plump ducks trussed for rotisserie cooking (I did not).
Most stores in New York don’t bother selling ducklings — they’re inefficient birds in that the meat-to-size ratio is low — and if they did such protracted preparation would be unthinkable. Time bows at the altar of gastronomy in France. In the United States time is the altar.
The third fundamental difference relates to “terroir,” the untranslatable combination of soil, hearth and tradition that links most French people to a particular place. France sees American mobility with a sacred immobility; attachments trump restlessness.
These are attachments of the gut, which brings us back to why the French take such pleasure in those hands at work cleansing a sea bass or a duckling, and why a stand selling watercress (with the unique taste of a particular patch of soil) is viable.
The French Paradox, so-called, is really the French self-evidence. Change your relationship to fear, time and place, and you change your metabolism. This has less to do with the specific foods eaten, or the specific wine drunk (although of course they count) than it has to do with how food is approached.
According to the 2009 C.I.A. World Factbook, the estimated average life expectancy in France is 80.98 (84.33 for women and 77.79 for men), against 78.11 for the United States (80.69 for women and 75.65 for men.) France ranks 9th in the world; America ranks 50th. There’s something to be said for ungloved hands picking mackerel from the ground.
The American healthcare debate is skewed. It should be devoting more time to changing U.S. culinary and eating habits in ways that cut the need for expensive care by reducing rampant obesity, to which anxiety, haste and disconnectedness contribute. France has much to teach, guts and all.
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Roger Cohen argues that what we eat isn't as important as how we eat. Fear, time, "place" make up much of the account of why we eat what we eat. Forget health, nutrition or even pleasure, Cohen makes the simple observation that what we fear, how much time we have to prepare and eat our food, and the meaningfulness of what we eat largely determines our food choices. There is no doubt, however, that Cohen subtly makes the case that the way we eat in the United States is inferior to peers in France.
Roger Cohen begins his essay with a brief analogy of arrival, not just going from place to place but arrival is a process “Like peeling an onion, layer by layer.” He then moves on to telling a story, or his account he had in France ascertaining to an experience of gutting a fish which lead him right into his point of how he arrived in France through this experience. Through this arrival and experience he had obtained he distinguishes vast differences in the way people eat in France than people in the United States. He notes these as fear, time, and terroir (place). Cohen moves into the discussion of fear as he states that Americans fear the life of food and the germs that are “rampant.” While on the other hand, the French envy such a thing as “life” in there food. Germs, guts, and life more or less disgust the average American consumer while the average French consumer looks for “guts and life.” Next Cohen introduces the idea of time. Time is precious and what is efficient is valuable to the American consumer. Americans see efficiency in packaged meals as attractive rather than the fresh liveliness of a fish straight from the water being gutted in front of their faces. Lastly, Roger approaches the topic of terroir. France believes in the earthly soil, hearth, and tradition in one’s food and states that “attachments trump restlessness.” This cannot be said about the average American Consumer where restlessness defeats the traditions of one’s food. Roger Cohen provides stories, facts, and examples as well to discuss these differences between France and the United States. More importantly, it seems that Roger relays his point across that the average American consumer does not care, nor take the time to prepare and really understand what it is they are eating, as long as it looks good in the package, Americans will eat it. In all, Americans intake is greatly determined by our surrounding’s and how much time it takes to prepare the food.
In Advantage France, Rodger Cohen explains the difference between the French and American perspectives on food. He begins setting the scene in France through an anecdote where a sea bass is being filleted and describes the gritty details.
In the argument Cohen lays out the main points that Americans want to be disconnected from their food and essentially require it to be prepared, sealed and packaged. For Americans, food must be attractive and fast. To counter this point with the French perspective, Cohen details how the French demand that there is evidence and proof of the food once being alive.
Lastly Cohen states statistics on life expectancy. These studies are supposed to connect the French lifestyle with a longer life expectancy. He revisits and suggests the French perspective is healthier than the fast and attractive American eating habits.
Life is like an onion. There are many layers and slowly throughout time you peel those layers learning new things. Cohen has traveled many places around the world but in France he had a life changing experience. It wasn’t the natural beauty or the Eifel Tower but fish guts. The French culture was far different form American however this gave him a desire to learn more about the food of France. America and France have similar traits such as fast food but the things that separate them are fear, time and terroir. Americans are always on a schedule not having time to prepare a nice homemade meal, and sometimes McDonalds are the best answer. The French have a strong passion for food, but for us Americans we don’t stop to see the beauty in it.
Roger Cohen’s article, “Advantage France” compares eating habits of France and the United States. In his article, Cohen begins by introducing a trip to France in which he saw any important and interesting things in regards to the differences between the United States and France. He talked about what he saw, and noted many differences between the eating habits and practices of the two countries. He went into detail about the United States’ fear of bacteria and germs, and how the French don’t think like Americans at all in regards to cleanliness of food. He then introduced three factors which play a role in the difference between the two nations, fear, time, and “terroir”. He further pushed the American’s fear of dirty food, and the French idea of that this dirty food is pure and genuine. He then discussed time, and how the U.S. desires time-efficient meals, while the French don’t mind how long it takes to prepare good food. He talked about terroir, and tied in how the three factors of fear, time, and place influence metabolism, which leads to higher life expectancy in France, because of eating habits and different focuses in regards to health care. Overall, Cohen makes apparent in his article that the French view on food is better than that of the United States.
Roger Cohen reflects back on his time spent in France at a fish market in his article "Advantage France". By recalling his memory of fish being gutted, Cohen is able to compare American's impression of food, versus France's appreciation of food, through three essential differences; fear, time, and "terroir". Fear is a rather large influence on American's/ They don't want to know or see what happens to their food, as long as it looks presentable and attractive in the end. The French on the other hand find it much more appealing to overlook everything that happens to their food, which also reassures it's freshness. Time also plays a major role in the American culture specifically relating to food. They have a concise perception of time, everything must be fast, efficient, and to the point. The French prefer more time because they feel it directly relates to the greater quality. Dining in France isn't just a necessity, it's an experience. The last indicator for essential differences is terroir. American's are constantly in motion and looking for a new experience. The French however embrace tradition and familiarity with their food. Cohen clearly states his opinion on France's healthier and more significant appreciation for food. He supports this with a fact on the higher life expectancy of the French.
Roger Cohen starts his article “Advantage France” giving the reader a short introduction with some persuasive phrases to state about how is to travel throughout the world, looking and learning about different cultures gives you an idea of how people’s gastronomy is. France and the United States of America are two different countries were food is totally different. He expresses and argues how people in France enjoy every piece of cooking. Also he gives a fact that verifies that they eat healthy and natural food which makes them live more years. French people can feel the taste of the food since buying the animal that they are going to eat. They love the smell of fresh food, cleaning the animal until the dish is done. Moreover, the author claims that in the United States of America, they like everything cooked already. They do not want to waste any time and they prefer if food is already pre-cooked. It does not matter if the food they are eating is not healthy neither natural. The last mentioned fact mentioned by the author Cohen infers that the longevity in the United States compared to the longevity in France is very low. Which states that people in France eat healthier than Americans.
First, the author Roger Cohen states his meaning of arrival, indicating to readers how “he” arrived in France. Just reaching a destination is not the act of arriving, but actually being present at the place one reached is how he calls arrival. His experience of observing cutting guts out of the live fish falls along after. Description of liveliness of fish interests the way his friend treated the fish without plastic gloves, stimulating Americans’ fear of not sanitized, germ-like behaviors. There are three factors provided: Fear, Time, and Terroir. Americans care more about how the food looks like and how clean the food is. Whereas, how the food is approached matters the most to French. While Americans are eager to produce all-packed, pre-cooked and well-sanitized foods, French people produce food to enjoy the food itself. The author concludes his article with the statistics of life expectancy to strengthen his overall argument.
Roger Cohen shows a clear difference between the American mindset on food and the French mindset on food. When the Americans saw the Gallic process of food treatment behind the kitchen, they were shocked. The process seemed somewhat barbaric, disgusting, and inefficient to the Americans. The American food culture differs with the French food culture because of fear, time, and “terrier”.
The Americans view food as things that are needed to live, while the French view food as life. The inedible things that are contained in a living animal, such as a gut, are viewed by the Americans as a “thing” that carries germs, therefore, creating a fear to have contact with bare hands. Americans do not want to know WHAT they are eating; they only care about the final appearance of their food. However, the French would be more fearful of not knowing WHO they are eating; they are curious about what the food used to be.
Americans want their food to be done fast while the French want theirs’ to be something that required a lot of effort. The Americans are not familiar with food that are time consuming to cook, and raising livestock that are inefficient in terms of producing large quantities in short time. However, the French prefer their food to be something that is made with great effort and great quality.
Terrier matters to the French because they prefer to know all the facts about the lives that come into their mouths. The terrier tells the identity, quality, and taste of the food. Because the Americans rather care about how fast and how much they can eat, the French who search for terriers to find a good food seem unwise to the Americans.
Roger Cohen’s observations of the two different food cultures clearly show the difference between the American perspective on food (stuff) and the French perspective on food (food). It is clear that the Americans view their food as a product, while the French view theirs’ as an art.
There’s nothing quite like a good ole home cooked meal prepared all day by mom. Those unique smells in the kitchen and the unique taste in your mouth, that can’t be found outside of your family dining area. Many of us love those meals, but as Americans, we always seem to be on the go and in hurry so we value the quick meal that a fast food restaurant or a TV dinner can provide. But according to Roger Cohen, the French enjoy that fresh home cooking all the time.
It’s not that the French don’t have fast food restaurants, or that Americans don’t appreciate home cooked meals, but rather how Americans seemingly choose an easier route by hitting the drive-thru on the way home. As Roger Cohen says, “the French don’t believe what they’re eating is genuine unless they’ve seen gritty proof of provenance.” This gritty proof is exampled in Cohen’s article where he tells the story of observing a Frenchman gut a fresh sea bass. This story not only tells the reader about gutting fish then just how gross it could be but also shows the relationship and appreciation between food and the French people.
The relationship the French have with their food is something unique and special to them. What Cohen wants his readers to learn is the appreciation for food that French people have that the American people do not.
The author first spent several paragraphs telling the readers about what he saw and how he felt during his journey in France. For example, in the second paragraph he contrasts what he expected to see in France with what he actually saw in France. He also described other people’s reactions to give the readers a feeling about France. Instead of giving a feeling of romance, the author gives the audience a feeling of guts. Then he gradually introduced the thesis and the main statement that France has preserved a relationship with food distinguished from that of America in three essential respects: fear, time and “terrior”. He spent about two paragraphs explaining each point. He supports and proves his statement by comparing and contrasts the differences between French and Americans when they deal with food. He also used examples during these body paragraphs to support his ideas. For example, he described the process of how French people take out the guts. Finally he concludes the essay by giving general evidences.
In Roger Cohen's article, Advantage France, Roger is informing the traditional way Americans prepare their food in contrast to the way the French compare their food through three different points: fear, time and "terroir". Each point indicated that the fashion of which the French prepare their foos is healtheir of how the Americans prepare their food.
Roger Cohen starts off by telling that the Americans are afraid to see know how their food is being prepared to avoid seeing naked hands laid upon their food, living guts and germs that might be invading their food. The French, on the other hand wants their food to be produced genuinely and they need to actually have proof or else skepticism might occur and they might be doubtful of whether their food is genuine. Americans also do not take time in preparing their food because it is easier and most Americans want their food prepared as soon as possible as they are always busy and in a hurry. Almost as if they were yin and yang, the French takes time in making their food so it can still stay intact with its origins and remain healthier in return. Overall Roger Cohen informs that the handling of the French with their food remains superior to that of the Americans in taste, health and longevity.
In Roger Cohen's article, Advantage France, Roger is informing the traditional way Americans prepare their food in contrast to the way the French compare their food through three different points: fear, time and "terroir". Each point indicated that the fashion of which the French prepare their foos is healtheir of how the Americans prepare their food.
Roger Cohen starts off by telling that the Americans are afraid to see know how their food is being prepared to avoid seeing naked hands laid upon their food, living guts and germs that might be invading their food. The French, on the other hand wants their food to be produced genuinely and they need to actually have proof or else skepticism might occur and they might be doubtful of whether their food is genuine. Americans also do not take time in preparing their food because it is easier and most Americans want their food prepared as soon as possible as they are always busy and in a hurry. Almost as if they were yin and yang, the French takes time in making their food so it can still stay intact with its origins and remain healthier in return. Overall Roger Cohen informs that the handling of the French with their food remains superior to that of the Americans in taste, health and longevity.
Roger uses the concept of the word “arrival” in the beginning to attract the readers and appeal the real topic by connecting this hook to the main theme. Then Roger describes his own experience of what he saw in France about gutting a fish and how people around him thought about it and use such instance to foreshadow the central idea of the coming paragraph.
After two introduction section, Roger brings out the main idea of the passage that there are three central differences between American and French attitude on food: fear, time and “terroir”.In the next several paragraphs he talks about each element individually with specific statistics and examples.
Finally he made his conclusion that the French way has certain advantages that Americans should learn.
Roger Cohen's article, Advantage France, is a detailed comparison between the American relationship to food and the French relationship to food, more specifically guts. The first six paragraphs introduce an experience using three points to describe gutting a fish.Then at the end of the paragraph, the introduction of fear, time, and "terroir" is presented. The next couple paragraphs explain the American relation to fear of natural, un-processed foods through Julia Child's tv show. Paragraph 9 is the French outlook and how they don't fear food, they welcome it. The next paragraph is the American outlook on time, and how Americans would prefer to eat pre-washed packaged meat. After, the French view is preferring the 15 minute task of preparing small ducks. The twelfth paragraph explains how most New York stores usually don't carry duck because Americans don't want to go through the process of preparation. Paragraph 13 is the contrast of the previous explaining how the French enjoy the "terroir" of their food. Paragraph Paragraph 14 returns to the initial topic of gutting the fish. The final three paragraphs are the closing of the essay, re-capping both views, and finally stating that America should take some tips on food and guts from the French.
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